training information
general
 
For the monthly training recommendation for October (a.k.a. homework) follow the same schedule as for September. Climbing 4 days a week is highly recommended.

Here are some other tips for the monthly schedule:

  • Work on finger strength, lock off strength, and contact strength (ability to hold onto slopers). Only do these workouts twice a week and never on back to back days.
    • Fingerboard work outs
    • Rock rings
    • Gymnastic rings
    • Campusing
  • For Power (high intensity, low number of moves 1-10)(ask at practice to explain the drills but the athletes know them):
    • 4x4's
    • Powerpacks
    • Pyramids
    • Points game
    • Good old fashioned bouldering session (warm up and then work on problems at your absolute limit
  • For Power endurance (lower intensity more moves 15-45+ moves)
    • Pumpy traversing
    • All the above drills using long routes instead of boulder problems
    • Speed climbing laps (3-5 routes 5 laps on each route back to back with 2 minutes rest in between routes)
    • Good old fashioned climbing session (warm up and then work on routes at your absolute limit)
  • Other things to constantly work on in your "homework sessions":
    • How to rest and shake out/get it back
    • Footwork/technique
    • Onsighting, onsighting, onsighting! You cannot practice this too much
    • Previsualiztion/ reading the route prior to climbing it

 
recommended training schedule
 
September
Monday Power endurance, Routes onsighting
Tuesday Power Bouldering, Fingerboard System Training
Wednesday Cross train, Core and aerobics
Thursday Power endurance, Routes onsighting
Friday Cross train, Core and aerobics
Saturday Power Endurance, Competition Or Routes
Sunday Active rest day, Fun but not too strenuous

 
Extra Training Sessions
Each session is $15. The time and location will be announced.
  • October 28th (Reimers Ranch) meet at 8am at NARG
  • November 18th
  • December 16th
  • January 20th
  • February 17th
  • March 24th
  • Aapril 21st
  • May 19th
  • June 16th
  • June 23rd