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training information
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general
For the monthly training recommendation for October (a.k.a. homework) follow the same schedule as for September. Climbing 4 days a week is highly recommended.
Here are some other tips for the monthly schedule:
- Work on finger strength, lock off strength, and contact strength (ability to hold onto slopers). Only do these workouts twice a week and never on back to back days.
- Fingerboard work outs
- Rock rings
- Gymnastic rings
- Campusing
- For Power (high intensity, low number of moves 1-10)(ask at practice to explain the drills but the athletes know them):
- 4x4's
- Powerpacks
- Pyramids
- Points game
- Good old fashioned bouldering session (warm up and then work on problems at your absolute limit
- For Power endurance (lower intensity more moves 15-45+ moves)
- Pumpy traversing
- All the above drills using long routes instead of boulder problems
- Speed climbing laps (3-5 routes 5 laps on each route back to back with 2 minutes rest in between routes)
- Good old fashioned climbing session (warm up and then work on routes at your absolute limit)
- Other things to constantly work on in your "homework sessions":
- How to rest and shake out/get it back
- Footwork/technique
- Onsighting, onsighting, onsighting! You cannot practice this too much
- Previsualiztion/ reading the route prior to climbing it
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recommended training schedule
September
| Monday |
Power endurance, Routes onsighting |
| Tuesday |
Power Bouldering, Fingerboard System Training |
| Wednesday |
Cross train, Core and aerobics |
| Thursday |
Power endurance, Routes onsighting |
| Friday |
Cross train, Core and aerobics |
| Saturday |
Power Endurance, Competition Or Routes |
| Sunday |
Active rest day, Fun but not too strenuous |
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Extra Training Sessions
Each session is $15. The time and location will be announced.
- October 28th (Reimers Ranch) meet at 8am at NARG
- November 18th
- December 16th
- January 20th
- February 17th
- March 24th
- Aapril 21st
- May 19th
- June 16th
- June 23rd
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