Cabinet

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Description

Cut Frame Pieces

The frame is constructed out of several 2x4 boards, a 2x6 board, and a 1x12 board.  The boards are cut to length with a table saw.  All of the joints are half lap joints and are cut with a 7" wobble-type dado blade in the table saw.  The depth of the half lap joints is 3/4" or exactly half the height of the 2x4's and 2x6 (1 1/2" nominal).  The joints need several passes of the dado blade to complete since the kerf of the dado blade is much less than the joint width.

Assemble Frame

The frame is assembled with screws and wood glue.  The screws are #6 x 1 1/4" drywall or exterior screws and the glue is generic Elmer's wood glue.  Each side is assembled separately and allowed to fully dry before the two halves are assembled with the cross members.

The screw holes are pre-drilled with a #8 countersink bit on ONE SIDE ONLY.  The other side of the joint is not pre-drilled at all.  This ensures that the screws hold the joint together firmly without having the two pieces bind. Either two or four screws are used depending on the size of the joint.  Spread a liberal amount of glue on each half of the joint.  Don't use so much glue that it runs all over everything but do use enough to ensure complete coverage.  After the glue is applied, mate the halves together and insert the screws with a power drill or screwdriver.  Clamp the assembly and allow it to dry.

Install Bottom Panel & Wheels

The bottom of the cabinet is a rectangular piece of 5/8" MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard).  It is held in place with sixteen 5/16" x 3" bolts that also hold the casters in place.  The front casters are 3" swivel and the rear casters are 3" fixed.  Each bolt hole is drilled through the MDF and 2x6 on the bottom of the frame.  Each bolt has two 5/16" washers and one 5/16" lock washer.

Mount Monitor

The monitor is mounted in place to check for fit and to dill the holes for the bolts.  The monitor is a Wells-Gardner U3000 27" and is held in the frame on the top and bottom with 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" angle iron cut to length with a scroll saw.  The monitor is bolted to the angle iron with three 1/2" x 1" bolts on each side.  Each bolt has two 1/2" washers and one 1/2" lock washer.  The angle iron is bolted to the top 1x12 and bottom 2x4 with three 5/16" x 1 1/2" on each side.  Each bolt has two 5/16" washers and one 5/16" lock washer.  The holes in the frame are drilled through.  Once the fit is perfected, remove the monitor and and angle iron and set them aside.

Cut Out Side Panels and Route

Draw construction lines for the side panel on a 4'x8' sheet of MDF on top of saw horses and cut out with a scroll saw.  Be careful not to saw through a saw horse like I almost did.  For the second side, clamp the first piece on top of a new 4'x8' MDF sheet and trace the perimeter.  Unclamp the first piece and cut out the second piece with the scroll saw.  After the side panels are cut out, place each side panel on the saw horses and route the slots for the T-molding with a router using a 1/16" slotting bit.  The whole perimeter is routed except for where the control box mates with the side panels.

Attach Side Panels

Align side panels with the frame and trace the frame onto the side panels.  This is easiest with the frame laying on its side.  After tracing the perimeter, move the side panels to the saw horses and drill a number of holes through the side panels with a #10 countersink bit so that the screws will go into the frame whose position was traced onto the side panel.  After a sufficient number of holes are drilled, repeat with the other side panel. I used about two screws every 8 inches of frame.

To install the side panels, place the frame on its side and cover the side of the frame with a liberal amount of wood glue.  Place the first side on top the frame with the countersink side facing up.  Use #8 x 1 1/2" exterior or drywall screws to attach the side to the frame.  Again, the screw holes should be oversize with respect to the screws to prevent binding.  Clamp the whole assembly and wait for it to dry before repeating on the second side panel.

Cut & Attach Ledgers

The ledgers are what hold the inside panels in place.  All the ledgers are craft grade 1x2 boards.  I avoided the cheaper 1x2 boards since they all seemed warped.  Each ledger is cut to size with the table saw and is attached so that there is 1 1/8" between the ledger and the edge of the side panel.  The inside panels are 5/8" MDF which will leave a 1/2" space between the inside panel and the edge of the side panels.

The ledgers are attached in a similar fashion as the side panels.  The easiest way is to draw a parallel line that is offset 1 7/8" from the edge of the side panels. Drill through the side panels every 6-8" of ledger with a #8 countersink bit.  Apply glue to ledger and use #6 x 1 1/4" screws to attach.  Hold in place with clamps until the glue drys.

Cut Out Inside Panels

The inside panels are cut out of 5/8" MDF using a table saw and have a width of 27".  Each joint that meets another inside panel is angle cut to ensure a tight fit by changing the tilt of the saw blade.

The door panel has a cutout for the coin slot and a hole for a cam lock.  The width is reduced by 1/4" to 26 3/4" to accommodate a hinge.  The panel above the monitor has two round cutouts for the speakers.  The bottom rear panel and back top panel have  cutouts for vents.

Install Inside Panels

The inside panels are installed by drilling through the panels with a #8 countersink bit in a similar fashion as the side panels.  Again, only drill through the panel and not the ledger.  Attach the panels to the ledgers with #6 x 1 1/4" exterior or drywall screws but do not use any glue.  The reason not to use glue is to make the cabinet easier to repair if something were to go wrong .  I also thought that the cabinet would be much lighter and easier to move with the panels removed.  Boy, was that ever true.

Attach Mounts for Monitor Bezel

Mounts for the monitor bezel are cut out of the 1x2 ledger material and form a complete rectangle around the monitor hole.  The mounts are attached the same way the ledgers are attached by drilling through the side panels with a #8 countersink bit, applying glue, and attaching with #6 x 1 1/4" screws.  The position of the mounts depend on where the face of the monitor lies.

Paint Inside Panels

Remove the inside panels once their fit is perfected and lay them on an elevated surface.  I used long boards laying on top of five gallon buckets.  Put a large drop cloth underneath to avoid overspray.  I used a Graco paint sprayer to apply the primer and black latex semi-gloss paint.  I added Floetrol to make it easier for the paint sprayer to spray the latex on.  I applied one coat of primer and a total of three coats of latex paint and the results were very impressive.

I originally tried to use a can of regular spray paint to avoid the trouble of using and cleaning up the paint sprayer.  I was not happy with the results so I decided to use the paint sprayer instead.

Paint Visible Part of Cabinet

The inside, visible parts of the side panels are painted at the same time as the inside panels.  Take care not to get paint on the outside of the side panels so that the bond of the contact cement used by the plastic laminate is not compromised.  If paint does get on the outside of the side panels, simply sand it off after it dries.

Cut Out Laminate

The plastic laminate is cut out with aircraft shears that are available at any hardware store.  The  laminate is cut about 2" oversize from the side panels.  Be careful around the corners to avoid large cracks.  Some cracking will occur while cutting the laminate but try to avoid cracks that reach the cabinet side.  A good book to reference for installing plastic laminate is "Making Plastic-Laminate Countertops" by Herrick Kimball.

Apply Contact Cement

Move the cut out piece of laminate on top of the saw horses.  Roll the contact cement onto both the laminate and the side panel with a small foam paint roller.  I used water-based contact cement for easier clean-up but other types are available.  Do not apply the  contact cement too thick but use enough for adequate coverage.  Follow the directions on the can for drying times.

Align Laminate on Dowels

After the contact cement dries, place wooden dowels on top of the side panel and lay the laminate on top of the dowels making sure that the laminate does not touch the side panel.  Six to eight dowels should be sufficient to keep the laminate from touching the side panel.  Move the laminate to ensure that it is aligned over the side panel.

Roll Laminate

Remove the dowels one at a time starting at one end and roll toward the other to ensure that no bubbles are pressed into the laminate.  I used an ordinary kitchen rolling pin to good effect but specialized tools are also available.  The laminate should be pressed with as much force as possible so make sure to put your weight behind it.  Also make sure that all areas are rolled over at least a couple of times.  Allow the contact cement to cure according to the directions on the can.

Route Laminate

The laminate is trimmed flush to the edge of the side panel with a laminate cutting bit in a router.  Hold the router firmly and always move the router counter-clockwise around the side panel.  Upon completion flip the cabinet over and repeat the process for the other side.

Reinstall Monitor and Inside Panels

Reinstall the monitor and tighten the bolts securing it to the frame.  Also, reinstall the painted inside panels with the same screws used before.  The front panel is attached with a  strip hinge that is cut with a scroll saw to 28" in length.  The strip hinge is screwed into the edge of the door and into the side panel.  The screws holes are pre-dilled with an undersize drill bit to avoid cracking the MDF.