Synthetic vs. Conventional Oils

There's no question that synthetic lubricants work better than their conventional counterparts. They reduce friction, last longer, flow easier, and promote better performance and efficiency. They do cost more, but if you're driving a nice car (like maybe ... a Cobra?) then why feed it inferior products?

I began using Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic engine oil at the third oil change. Currently I'm using Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic oil, which is specially forumlated for older engines. For the oil filter, I now use the Motorcraft FL-820S; this is a well-made and inexpensive part that's recommended by Ford.

In addition, I use Red Line D4 ATF in the tranny and Amsoil Series 2000 75w90 Synthetic Gear Oil in the rear end. Using synthetics like Amsoil, Red Line, Pennzoil Platinum, or Mobil 1 is one of the best things you can do for your car's performance and longevity.

Other Maintenance Issues

The main rule to follow is: DO IT YOURSELF! STAY AWAY FROM DEALERS' SERVICE DEPARTMENTS! More often than not, my cars have come back from a dealer's "service" in worse shape than when they went in. And if I were to relate all the horror stories I've heard from other folks, this page would be a book! I say again, AVOID DEALERS LIKE THE PLAGUE. If you really need major work done, find a good independent shop (not a chain store such as a tire dealer or quick-lube joint) and stay with the car while it's being worked on, if at all possible. If you must have something fixed under warranty, do whatever you can to find a decent dealer (Lincoln-Mercury dealers may be a good bet -- they will likely work on your Mustang) and monitor the work as closely as possible. Stay on their case, assume nothing, and ask lots of questions.

It's not that difficult to perform your own routine maintenance, though. The main task, of course, is changing the engine oil and filter every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first (truth be told, you're safe for quite a bit longer with synthetics and a good filter, particularly if you do mostly highway driving, but I still wouldn't let it go longer than 6 months or 6000-7000 miles on a top-quality synthetic oil). I use UltraRamps with the extensions in order to raise the car, a 5/8" wrench for the drain plug, a drain pan, a filter wrench, and a funnel -- it's not really a complex procedure.

Here's a tip for you DIYers: the old filter contains dirty oil which will flow out when you unscrew it. To avoid a mess, I cover the pieces below the filter with some aluminum foil and let the oil from the filter run over the foil and into my drainpan. Removing the old filter is the messiest part of the job. You may also want to use rubber gloves to keep the oil off your hands (a good idea). Before installing the new filter, I prep it by pouring in some new oil and rolling it around so that the element is saturated.

Slicken Your Tranny

After running with the original transmission fluid for a few thousand miles, I decided to replace it with Amsoil ATF (later I used Red Line D4 ATF with excellent results). I bought a Sta-Lube pump for five bucks from a local auto parts store -- it screws right into the top of an ATF bottle (replacing the cap) and presto, I had a soap dispenser-style rig that included a small hose that fit right into the transmission's fill hole. Very neat. After raising the car so that it was level (I used ramps on the front and jackstands on the rear), a 3/8" ratchet (without socket) was used to remove the drain and fill plugs on the passenger's side of the tranny. The old fluid was drained from the lower plug until no more dripped out (this can take a while, especially if the fluid is cold). Then the drain plug was replaced and the new fluid pumped into the fill hole until it started spilling out. The T45 tranny takes a little less than 4 quarts. The fill plug was replaced, the car was set back down, and I drove around and noticed how much smoother and slicker the shifter felt. This procedure doesn't have to be repeated for another 60,000 miles or so of normal driving, but it pays to check the level every once in a while.

Cool the Engine

In addition to changing the oil and filter regularly, I drain and refill the radiator each time the oil is changed. I used to flush the whole system every other year, but using the drain/fill method makes it easier to prevent introducing tap water into the system (not a good thing). When filling the radiator, I use a 60% distilled water / 40% antifreeze mix along with some Red Line Water Wetter -- this mixture seems to work for warm climates, especially if you run underdrive pulleys (as I do). To intially alter the mixture to these specs, I drained 2 quarts of coolant from the radiator (the drain plug is the yellow plastic cap under the passenger side) and then poured in the 12 oz. bottle of Water Wetter and enough distilled water to fill the radiator back up. I followed the procedure in the Cobra owner's manual for replacing coolant (you pour new coolant into the junction tube in front of the alternator, not into the radiator itself). This procedure worked for me -- the temp gauge used to touch the "A" (on the NORMAL scale) when idling or running hard in hot weather. Now it just gets into the "M" at its hottest.

Some may question why I don't flush the whole system anymore. Well, after living with this engine for nearly ten years, it's apparent to me that the coolant passages (such as the inside of the thermostat housing) stay clean as a whistle using the drain/fill method, at least in my case. And do the math - replacing half the fluid in the system twice a year ultimately changes out nearly as much fluid as flushing the entire system every two years, without introducing harmful tap water as is commonly done with flushes. Now, if your cooling system has been neglected, then you probably could use a flush. But my method seems to work for me -- YMMV. Note that by pulling the lower radiator hose at the thermostat housing as well as draining the radiator, I replace two full gallons of coolant, which is more than half the total capacity.

By the way, I always use the good ol' green antifreeze. The newer extended-life types may not be compatible with engines that weren't equipped with it originally, no matter what they claim. I was using Zerex original formula until it got hard to find; now I use Zerex Maxlife.

Gettin' In Tune

To keep the engine at peak performance, I wash and re-oil the K&N air filter, replace the fuel filter, and clean the inside of the MAF with spray contact cleaner every 30,000 miles, and plan to replace the spark plugs and wires at around 50,000 miles. That would also be a good time to clean the inside of the throttle body with a spray cleaner made for that specific purpose (one that doesn't remove the factory coating).

What kind of plugs and wires to use? The stock Ford stuff works well, but from what I've gathered, the NGK TR-55 gapped at .054" (I may use the platinum versions if I decide the small theoretical performance advantage of the copper plugs isn't worth the shorter lifespan) and ACDelco RapidFire #8 are also good choices for plugs. As for wires, Magnecor KV85 8.5mm, Taylor Spiro-Pro 8mm, or FRPP 9mm wires will work fine for those who want something different from what the factory gives you.

To help get rid of the deposits that tend to build up in the injectors, valves, and combustion chambers, it's a good idea to use a bottle of Fuel System Cleaner every few thousand miles. I've used Red Line cleaner; Techron, FP60, or Chemtool would also work pretty well. Another interesting product is Auto-Rx, which is added to the oil to remove old sludge and other deposits from the engine's bottom end. I plan to try this soon.

One other maintenance item that's frequently overlooked is changing the brake fluid every 30,000 miles (or at least every other year) for a purely street-driven car, or before every road-race/autocross event should you choose to do that kind of thing. It's important not only to keep the fluid from getting too waterlogged, thus giving you a mushy pedal and greater likelihood of brake fade, but also to prevent corrosion of the brake components from moisture. Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid will perform well on both the street and the track -- pick up three bottles at your Ford dealer to do the job -- but I currently use a more obscure product, ATE Super Blue (purchased from OG Racing), which is highly recommended for street and track use -- it reportedly lasts longer than most other brake fluids while keeping a very high boiling point.

As far as the other brake components go, it's a very good idea to change your '96-'98 Cobra front brake hoses to the 1999 versions -- if you ever drive on a racetrack, this is a must! I've also heard good things about the 1999 Cobra front rotors, which I plan to use when replacement time comes. Pads? I'd stick with the stock pads for street use, but swapping in a high-performance pad for the track wouldn't be a bad idea (as long as you've got the upgraded hoses). Performance Friction, Porterfield, and Hawk are names that I'd look into for heavy road-course action.

Keep the Shiny Side Up

After trying a bunch of different wax and polish products over the years -- everything from NuFinish to Meguiar's -- I've found some products that seem to work best for me. At first I was skeptical of the hype surrounding the Zaino line of cleaners and polishes, but I can honestly say now that their claims are not much of an exaggeration. My car looks GREAT after using this stuff.

To give the car the full initial treatment, I washed the car with Dawn to strip off the old wax, then carefully used a Clay Magic bar (with plenty of lubricant) on the painted surfaces. When the paint was squeaky-clean and dry, I applied Zaino Z-1, a sort of base coat that prepares the paint for the Z-5 and Z-2 polishes. I put on one coat of Z-5 to minimize the fine scratches and swirl marks, then a coat of Z-2 the next day. I used Z-6 spray in between coats. The results are quite impressive -- words like "glassy," "mirror-like," "slick," and "gleaming" come to mind. The polishes were very easy to apply and buff off, unlike some other waxes I've tried.

I also like the Zaino Z-16 tire treatment. I'm not crazy about the glossy look that you get with silicone sprays like Armor All. The Zaino product is different -- it leaves a natural black finish and keeps the tires and other rubber pieces like weatherstripping looking good. Finally, the Z-7 car wash concentrate seems to maintain the shine left by the polish quite well (I give the car a new coat of Z-2 every two months or so, with another base of Z-1 every six months). Overall, I have to give the Zaino line a big thumbs-up!

I also use Mother's Back to Black on the exterior black plastic pieces, Lexol Leather Cleaner and Conditioner for the seats, and Simple Green in the engine bay. Hinges and latches (doors, hood, and trunk) are greased with white lithium every few months. A California Dash Duster keeps the interior tidy. My car looks better now than it did in the showroom. As well it should -- it was Class Winner at the 2006 Mustang Owners Club of Austin Round-Up car show!

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