Motorsport Aluminum Driveshaft
Satisfaction: 7
Ease of Installation: 7
Help reduce driveline vibrations, and reduce weight
There was nothing wrong with my stock driveshaft, but my plan to install new rear-end gears led me to consider a better-balanced piece in order to minimize the vibration problems that sometimes occur when this is done. After hearing others' experiences, I decided to order the Ford Motorsport aluminum driveshaft (Part #M-4602-J) from Summit. Cost was $159. (Note that the 96-up cars with the T45 tranny need the new "J" part, not the earlier "G" model.) Advantages of the aluminum piece include better balancing, less rotational mass, and, for those of us who value aesthetics (even underneath the car), a shiny non-rusty finish. :-)
Installation
The driveshaft is easily installed by the do-it-yourselfer -- it's a straightforward remove-and-replace deal. After jacking up the rear of the car (not the front -- didn't want fluid to spill out from the tranny), setting it on jackstands placed under the rear frame rails, and removing the four bolts that hold the shaft to the differential, the shaft simply pulled rearward out of the transmission. The new one goes right in and fits perfectly. The shaft needs to be rotated by turning a rear wheel in order to reach all the bolts; when tightening them or breaking them loose you need to set the parking brake and put the car in gear. It helps to have a friend around when you do this -- saves you from having to get up from under the car and grabbing the shifter and brake lever with your grimy hands.
Impressions
Well, the driveshaft seems to smooth out the ride a little bit on the freeway, not so much that you really notice it, but I suspect it will prove its worth when the new gears are installed. In hindsight, it may have been better to have had the gears swapped first, then to have upgraded the driveshaft in case any vibrations were apparent. This is what I would recommend to other modders. Oh, and I didn't notice any power gain, but that's OK since it's supposed to be no more than 1 or 2 horses (the reduced mass helps deliver a bit more power to the rear wheels).
Tools Needed
A 12mm 12pt socket, a long wobble-type extension, and a good torque wrench (all 1/2" drive) are needed for the four bolts. A long breaker bar might help -- they're on there pretty tight. When screwing them back in, I used Loctite Red to keep them secure.