There have been several reports of '96-'98 Cobras losing their front brake hoses while running on racetracks, particularly when using aftermarket brake pads. The heat generated under such conditions proves too much for the rubber line close to the caliper and it either bursts or pops off the fitting, rendering the whole braking system useless. Ford redesigned the hoses for the '99 Cobra by replacing the lower 4" or so of rubber with a metal line, even though there doesn't appear to be a problem with street-driven cars using factory pads. Whatever the case, I figured it would be a good idea to swap my hoses for the new ones when I flushed out my old brake fluid. If you want to take your car to a track, the swap should be considered mandatory -- you really don't want to lose your brakes out there. The 1999 Cobra front brake hoses can be ordered from any Ford dealer -- they're around $30 each (separate parts for each side).

The second time I flushed the fluid (Spring 2004), I took the opportunity to replace my front pads and rotors. They weren't completely shot, but the rotors were a little warped and the pads were a bit on the thin side. I bought a new set of factory pads, but for the rotors I went directly to Brembo and ordered up a pair of their rotors for the Cobra. These are much improved from the originals, and are nearly identical to the Brembo-supplied parts that have been factory-installed since 1999. The only real difference I know of is that the ones I bought are zinc-coated, which is a nice thing to have if you don't really like having rusty rotors.

Installation

The brake hoses are pretty easy to replace, but it would've been much easier to use an 11mm flare-end wrench instead of a regular open wrench for the jam nut that holds the top of the hose to the metal brake line. Also I used a 5/8" socket for the lower fitting and a few rags to catch dripping fluid. After raising the front of the car and removing the wheel, I loosened the small nut at the very top where the old rubber hose meets the metal line. Fluid did drip out; I used the rags to soak it up (it's a good idea to wear gloves and goggles -- brake fluid is nasty, particularly to paint). I used a long thin screwdriver to pry off the c-clip holding the top of the old hose on, then removed the lower end of the hose with the socket and ratchet, being ready to deal with the fluid that flows out. Installation is the reverse of removal. I tightened the lower fitting to 29 ft-lbs., and used a hammer to get the c-clip back in.

Of course, you must bleed the brakes after doing the swap in order to get all the air out. In my case, it was time to flush the whole system with new fluid so I purchased a liter of ATE Super Blue from OG Racing and did the job immediately after installing the hoses. A good outline of brake bleeding can be found in the Corral's tech section.

The pads and rotors were very easy to remove and replace. A brake pad change for these Cobra calipers is much easier than other cars I've worked on, and the old rotors just pop off once the caliper is removed (sometimes a bit of persuasion is necessary -- penetrating oil and a rubber mallet come in handy).

Impressions

After replacing just the hoses and fluid, the brake pedal was noticeably firmer, probably mostly due to the new fluid. (ATE Super Blue, a German product, is good stuff for high-performance street cars -- it lasts 2 to 3 years while maintaining a very high boiling point. BMW recommends it, I hear.) The new hoses fit perfectly and provide much peace-of-mind when driving hard. Nice upgrade!

As for the rotors, they provide silky-smooth stops and look great under the wheels. Again, highly recommended!

Other Options

Many Cobra owners replace their hoses with stainless-steel versions, available from several vendors, but these are more difficult to install and require more vigilant inspection. If you're heavily into road racing they may be a good idea, but keep a good eye on them for tears or kinks and replace them immediately if they look anything less than perfect.

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